NIKON 5700
a brief encounter .. (general cleanup only) 12 April 2006

Link to Fuji_S602 , where it all began.

After an extensive analysis of the Fuji, with often quite harsh criticism, this was an excellent opportunity to compare build qualities of other brands and see where it all stood. The patient has come in with a faulty Flash. It refuses to fire and subsequently WON'T allow an external Flash to work either. Interesting. Nurse .. scalpel ..

It's a tiny bit smaller and "blockier" than the S602 (more square lines). As a tech, I prefer this styling and "solidness" MUCH more than the S602. The linished magnesium on black is definitely "cool". If you have big PAWS, then it could feel cramped though. The alloy construction is definitely a BIG plus, BUT it goes downhill from there :-). Literally dozens of screws and interlocking panels are out of control. And dozens of SOLDERED wires?? What the heck? If the construction was plastic, this multi-section design would be a nightmare, but it's well machined to fit together. Even so, it worries me from a service point of view. As this is the first one I've seen, I don't have any "real" opinion yet if it's better or worse, just an observation. One thing for sure, It's going to be a service nightmare pulling it completely apart

NOTE : It is obvious that the design / engineering of the "electronics" is abysmal to say the least. I am stunned that a respected name like Nikon could come up with this crap. It's not JUST Nikon either, I was so disappointed when I first dis-assembled my own Fuji S602 and saw how bad it was. I so wanted to believe that this wonderful new world of Digital Imaging was about engineering and the beauty it portrayed. Maybe I'm just too critical, an outdated 'dinasaur', maybe in this new age we don't question what's "under the hood" - after all, if it works, why worry? ........ naaaa BUGGER 'EM !! I'll call them as I see them.

*** I am NOT implying that this camera won't carry out it's intended design, just don't bother fixing it.

* Day 4: I've gotten used to the mess :-), so it isn't bad now. In fact, I can navigate quite easily, thanks to the really "open" spaces :-)

1/ REMOVING THE REAR 1/4 COVER : Difficulty Lvl_2.0

NOTE : FIRST Remove the batteries and FLASH Cards.
There are 7 screws to remove from all around the rear section.
S1 2x Bottom of case, next to LCD
S2 1x Next to ZOOM-W button
S3 2x Inside CF compartment door, rear wall
S4 1x Left of LCD pivot arm (NOT the one ON the pivot arm, next left)
S5 1x Left of EVF, next to dioper wheel

NOTE : The EVF rubber surround will need to be removed. It is only press fitted in, BUT you will need to pry it out slowly so as NOT to tear the rubber. You may need to loosen other section screws nearby IF it won't budge or "wiggle" it out while holding the rear section ajar. It's Not at all too difficult once you "know" what has to happen.

The REAR SECTION will now come apart quite easily. There are 2 ribbons to unclip
R1C3, the LCD and rear-switch bank. Both are ONLY friction fit i.e. NO levers / arms etc. So now the back is OFF !! R1C1 and R1C2.

2/ REMOVING TOP SECTION : Difficulty Lvl_2.0
Note: It can NOT be completely removed, it remains tethered via a bunch of "soldered" wires !

First remove the 3 ribbon cables that are connected on a PCB glued to the metal CF cover.

S10 2x Inside CF compartment, along the front edge.
S11 2x POP the Flash by hand, front edge of the cover plate.
S12 1x Deep inside the Battery compartment, near the TOP of the camera.
S13 1x Hidden under the COOLPIX 5700 Logo on the front. Peel back the corner of the rubber which is held by a bung.

Gently pull the TOP section back and up. UNCLIP a large yellow ribbon cable (to centre of PCB stack). Note : The TOP section doesn't come off. It is SOLDERED to various PCB's in the Internal stack !! I would love to meet the engineer who designed this, I want to introduce his testicles to a car battery !! All the Flash wiring is soldered, some deep down inside ! Will confirm later.
I noticed one solder joint was very poorly done, but I DOUBT it is responsible for the fault.

3/ REMOVING THE EVF : Difficulty Lvl_2.0

S15 2x EVF mounting feet screws, easy to find.
Undo 1 ribbon cable and 1 power cable, both are friction fit.

4/ REMOVING the Power PCB : Difficulty Lvl_1.0

S18 Only one at the bottom left edge.

The PCB is levered out from the TOP right. Only a stacking connector holds it in place. Refer
There are several fuses, as seen in
R3C1, R3C2. NOT all are marked. Unfortunately these are NON-RESETTABLE type and quite over-rated because of that. They are Surface mount type 0805 size (damn tiny) and rated at mostly 2A !! The reason they over-rate them so much is - you DON'T want them blowing UNLESS it's an emergency ! As they're not easy to replace, it's pointless having them. In this day and age, EVERYONE uses Polyfuses (auto-resetting). At first I had high hopes that I'd found the fault, but all fuses were ok. A scan of other components found a SHORTED Tantalum (near the Battery connector), but that turned out to be the old DC power connector debarkle*.
*The world has mostly standardised on centre +VE for DC type Power connectors. Unfortunately, the DC sockets are switched BODY or --VE (because some engineer was too lazy to design it properly). So now we have BATT +VE and DC +VE tied together with --VE being switched. As it ISN'T a change-over, all sorts of "tricks" are used to isolate the 2 supplies, SHOTTKY's, FETS etc. Just another mess. The Fuji is the same.

5/ SPLITTING the BODY : Difficulty Lvl_3.0

S20 ALL of the REST, eveything you can find :-).

Third stage conclusion - AAEEEIIIIeeeeEEEEAAAAeeeeeaaaaRRGHHHH !


 N0_Row1Col1  N0_Row1Col2  N0_Row1Col3  N0_Row1Col4  N0_Row1Col5

 N1_Row1Col1  N1_Row1Col2  N1_Row1Col3  N1_Row1Col4  N1_Row1Col5
Rear P/Supply PCB
..and CF Module
Rear Section
..with EVF rubber
 N1_Row2Col1  N1_Row2Col2  N1_Row2Col3  N1_Row2Col4  N1_Row2Col5
 N1_Row3Col1  N1_Row3Col2  N1_Row3Col3  N1_Row3Col4  N1_Row3Col5
 N1_Row4Col1  N1_Row4Col2  N1_Row4Col3  N1_Row4Col4  N1_Row4Col5


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